I suspect that at least many profiles are built with standard matrices of 9x9x9 to 12x12x12 for R, G, and B, i.e., no weighting of more patches near the neutrals much less express attempts to achieve neutrality. One might wonder what "most profiles" does and does not include. The article is using a Canon printer, but the principles are exactly the same for the 15000 I've addressed this in an article I wrote a while ago This means that adjustments need to be applied to the ABW settings - adding tints to colour files and printing with ICC profiles seems like a great way to use up paper and ink The one thing I can say though is that the ABW mode outperformed most profiles. See some of the graphs in the actual review.ĭo you mean putting a slight warm tome to the file so it prints neutral black instead of with a blue tint? The results are such that I've not got a paper I can say is best - add to that the differences in paper types/availability in different regions and to get the best results you need to experiment. The overall results are not predictable, so you need to experiment with different papers to see what works best for B&W. With any B&W printing the darker tones are much more reflective at deep red wavelengths giving a sensitivity to the spectral distribution of the viewing lighting - this is similar with any paper. With ABW, the tone seems relatively good, but does vary with paper choice. With the ABW mode the linearity seems fairly good - but this varies with different papers The problems with B&W on a printer like this cover the linearity, the neutrality of tone and illuminant metamerism. When you say that some experimenting is required to get good B&W prints, what does that mean?
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